Bathroom Walls: Paint, Wainscoting, Wallpaper and Plaster

The walls outside the shower are where a bathroom gets most of its personality, and where finishes fail quietly: paint that peels above the tub, wallpaper seams that lift, baseboards that swell. The rule is simple. Inside the shower and tub area, walls need a nonabsorbent surface over a waterproof system. Outside it, almost any finish works if it can handle humidity and splashes and the room dries out between uses.

Where the wet zone ends

Washington's residential code requires the floors and walls of shower compartments, and the walls above tubs with showerheads, to have a nonabsorbent surface extending at least 6 feet above the floor. In practice, that means tile, stone, slab or a panel system around the shower and tub, as covered on tile vs panel shower walls. Many designers take tile to the ceiling in the shower, which also avoids a paint line in the steam.

Everything else in the room is splash zone or dry zone: the wall behind the sink and toilet, the walls around the vanity, and the ceiling. That is where paint, wainscot, wallpaper and plaster come in.

The options compared

Paint

Sheen

Sherwin-Williams' sheen guide says a satin or semi-gloss sheen is ideal for bathrooms because it can withstand moisture, and it lists bathrooms under semi-gloss and also under its pearl and low-lustre sheens. Benjamin Moore notes that painters once had to use a shinier sheen in bathrooms to avoid water stains, and that it now sells a water-resistant matte bathroom paint as well as a satin kitchen and bath paint.

Shinier sheens are easier to wipe but show every bump and patch in the wall, especially under a vanity light that rakes across it. A flat-looking finish hides wall flaws. If you want a matte look in a bathroom, use a paint made for bathrooms, not an ordinary flat wall paint.

Mildew and "mildew-resistant" paint

Many bathroom paints are sold as mildew-resistant, meaning they contain added mildewcides. No industry standard defines the term, so treat it as the maker's claim rather than a rating. It helps on the surface, but it does not stop mildew in a room that stays wet. The EPA's advice is that moisture control is the key to mold control, with indoor humidity kept below 60 percent and ideally between 30 and 50 percent.

Preparation and timing

• Remove mildew before painting. Benjamin Moore calls this critical to a successful result. Wash with a mild detergent and let the wall dry fully.
• Repair peeling areas back to sound paint, and find out why they peeled. Peeling over a tub often means steam is not leaving the room.
• Prime patches and bare drywall with a primer the paint maker recommends.
• Wait before showering. Benjamin Moore recommends 24 hours after the final coat before normal bathroom use.

Wainscoting

Wainscot protects the lower wall where splashes, mop water and toilet brushes hit, and it breaks up a tall wall. Common heights, as designer rules of thumb rather than any code, are around a third of the wall height for a traditional look, and taller (often to the top of the vanity mirror or around two-thirds of the wall) for a more modern, panelled look. Aligning the top with the vanity backsplash, a window sill or the shower tile height makes it look planned.

Painted wood or MDF beadboard and panels give a classic look at a lower cost. Seal all edges, especially the bottom edge, and keep it off the floor slightly with a sealant joint so it does not wick water. Tile wainscot costs more but shrugs off water entirely, which makes it a good choice in kids' baths and behind toilets. Handmade tile makes a striking wainscot; see zellige and handmade tile.

Wallpaper

Wallpaper works well in powder rooms, where there is no shower, and on the walls of a full bathroom that are well away from the spray. Choose a paper whose maker allows bathroom use, which usually means vinyl or a coated surface, and a bathroom-rated adhesive. Seams and edges are where moisture gets in, so avoid placing a seam right above the sink. A bathroom with a poor fan will lift almost any wallpaper eventually. For powder room ideas, see powder room remodels.

Lime plaster and tadelakt

Lime plaster gives a soft, cloudy, hand-finished wall that suits spa-like and Mediterranean rooms. Tadelakt is a traditional polished lime plaster, burnished and treated with soap to repel water, used historically in bathhouses. Both are specialist trades. Outside the shower, lime plaster is a durable, breathable finish. Inside a shower, tadelakt and similar systems depend entirely on the applicator's method, the system's own instructions and careful maintenance. Ask for the system's written instructions and examples of showers the applicator has finished, and be cautious about using a plaster in place of a waterproof tile assembly. For the look as part of a whole design, see spa bathrooms.

What goes behind the wall finish

Outside the shower, walls are usually moisture-resistant gypsum board, finished and painted. Inside the shower, the backing is part of the waterproof system: cement board or foam board with a membrane, or another listed system. The Tile Council of North America notes that not all drywall makers recommend their product in a shower even with a membrane, and suggests checking with your local code official. Mixing these up is a common cause of failed walls in older bathrooms, and it is covered in waterproofing explained.

Who should choose which

• Bathroom paint only: most rooms, especially on a tight budget or where color will change later.
• Tile wainscot: kids' baths, rooms with heavy splashing and owners who want minimal upkeep.
• Painted wainscot: older homes and traditional rooms where the look fits.
• Wallpaper: powder rooms and well-ventilated bathrooms, for pattern.
• Lime plaster: feature walls and spa-style rooms, with a specialist applicator.

JDI plans the wall finishes with the tile layout, so wainscot heights, tile edges and paint lines line up. See how we approach a bathroom remodel in Vancouver, and the bathroom color schemes page for choosing colors.