Microwave Options: Over-the-Range, Drawer, Built-In and Countertop

By the JDI Construction teamReviewed by Arthur Kulchitskiy, CEOUpdated October 20266 min read

Quick answer

An over-the-range microwave saves counter space but is high to reach and ventilates weakly. A microwave drawer in a base cabinet or island is the easiest to reach and keeps counters clear, at a higher cost. A built-in in a wall or tall cabinet sits at a comfortable height. A countertop unit on a shelf or in a pantry costs least and is easiest to replace.

The microwave is the appliance most often left until last and then regretted. It is used many times a day, by everyone in the house including children, and its position affects counter space, ventilation and where the cabinets break. There are four places it can go. Each has a clear case for and against.

The four placements compared

Over the rangeDrawerBuilt-inCountertop or shelf
LocationAbove the range, in place of a hoodIn a base cabinet or island, below the counterIn a wall cabinet or tall cabinet, often above a wall ovenOn the counter, an open shelf, or in a pantry
ReachHigh. Hot dishes are lifted down over the cooktopLow. Dishes are lifted up and out from aboveSet where you choose, ideally between waist and shoulderCounter height
Counter spaceSaves itSaves itSaves itUses it, unless on a shelf or in a pantry
Ventilation of the rangeWeak to fairSeparate hood, unaffectedSeparate hood, unaffectedSeparate hood, unaffected
Cabinet workA short wall cabinet aboveA base cabinet built to the cutoutA cabinet built to the cutout, plus a trim kitNone, or a shelf with clearances
Replacing laterFairly easy. Widths are consistentMust match the cutoutMust match the cutout or trim kitEasiest
Relative costLowerHigherMid to higherLowest

Over the range

The over-the-range microwave earns its place in small kitchens. It does two jobs in the width of the range and uses no counter or base cabinet. In a kitchen where every inch of counter is needed, that is a real advantage.

The costs are in reach and in ventilation. The microwave floor sits above shoulder height for many people, so a bowl of hot soup comes down past your face and over a hot cooktop. That is a poor arrangement for children, for shorter adults and for anyone with limited shoulder strength. As a hood, the unit has a flat, shallow underside and a small fan, so it catches less than a real hood. If it is to serve as the kitchen's exhaust it must be rated as a range hood and meet Washington's airflow and sound rules, which are explained on the range hoods and ventilation page. The other hood choices are compared under range hood types.

Microwave drawer

A drawer microwave slides out from a base cabinet. You place food in from above, close it and use controls on the angled front. It needs no bending into a low cavity and no reaching overhead, which is why it appears in so many kitchens planned for aging in place. Children can use it safely, and a parent can lock the controls.

What to weigh:

  • It costs a base cabinet. Usually a drawer stack. In a kitchen short on drawers that matters.
  • The cutout is specific. Drawers come in 24 and 30 inch width classes, and the cabinet is built to the installation sheet. A replacement years later needs to suit the same opening.
  • Position. Put it outside the main cooking zone, near the refrigerator, so someone reheating lunch is not in the cook's way. The end of an island or the end of a run works well.
  • Interior height is lower than many countertop models.

Built-in at wall height

A built-in microwave sits in a wall cabinet or a tall cabinet behind a trim kit that frames it and provides the air path it needs. Some models are made only for building in. Others are countertop models with a matching kit from the same manufacturer.

The common position is above a single wall oven in a tall cabinet, which keeps both appliances together and at usable heights. The limit is the door. Most built-in microwaves are hinged at the side, usually on the left, so check that the door will not open into a wall or a refrigerator panel. Models with a drop-down door, like an oven, are available and suit a position below eye level. Planning the tall cabinet is covered on the wall ovens and specialty ovens page.

Height is the thing to get right. As a designer guideline and not a code rule, the bottom of the microwave is most comfortable somewhere between counter height and shoulder height for the main user. Higher than that and you are back to lifting hot dishes down from above.

Countertop, shelf or pantry

A freestanding microwave is the least expensive, has the widest choice of sizes and features, and is replaced in minutes. The objection is that it sits on the counter. There are three ways around that:

  • An open shelf or niche in the wall cabinets or a tall cabinet, sized with the clearances in the microwave's manual and with a receptacle inside.
  • An appliance garage at counter level, with a door that lifts or slides away. The microwave must still have its required clearances and should not be run with the door closed unless the cabinet is designed for it.
  • The pantry. A shelf in a walk-in or cabinet pantry keeps the microwave close and out of sight. See kitchen storage and pantries for how to plan one with power.

Size the shelf generously. A niche built tightly around one model limits what you can buy next time.

Speed ovens as an alternative

A speed oven combines microwave energy with convection heat, and sometimes a broiling element, in a built-in oven. It works as a plain microwave, as a small second oven, or in combination to cook and brown food faster than a conventional oven. In a kitchen with one wall oven or a range, a speed oven above or beside it replaces the microwave and adds a second oven in the same space.

It sits in a higher cost tier than any microwave, it usually needs more electrical capacity than a microwave does, and it is built to a cutout. It makes most sense when you would otherwise want both a microwave and a second oven and do not have room for both.

Power

Wherever the microwave goes, it needs a receptacle or connection in the right place, and that has to be roughed in before drywall. Whether a given microwave needs its own circuit depends on the type of unit, its nameplate and the electrical code in force. That is a question for your electrician, with the installation sheet in hand. The kitchen electrical code page explains how the code treats microwaves and other fixed appliances.

What to check on the spec sheet

  • Cutout or opening dimensions, and for countertop models the required clearances at the sides, top and rear.
  • Interior capacity and interior height, and turntable diameter where there is one.
  • Door type: side-hinged, drop-down or drawer, and which way it opens.
  • Whether a trim kit is required, its outside dimensions and which cabinet widths it suits.
  • Electrical requirements and the receptacle location.
  • For over-the-range units: certified airflow and sound ratings, duct outlet options, and the mounting height above the cooktop.
  • Cooking power and whether it has sensor reheat. Higher power heats faster.
  • Control lock.

Who should choose which

  • Small kitchen, light cooking: over the range, rated as a hood and ducted outdoors.
  • Family kitchen with an island: a drawer in the island, near the refrigerator.
  • Kitchen with a wall oven: a built-in or a speed oven in the same tall cabinet.
  • Budget-conscious remodel, or anyone who replaces small appliances often: a countertop model on a planned shelf or in the pantry.
  • Anyone who cooks on gas or sears often: keep the microwave off the range wall and give the range a real hood.
  • Limited reach or strength: a drawer, or a built-in set just above counter height.

Decide the microwave's home while the cabinets are still on paper. It changes at least one cabinet whichever option you pick. At JDI Construction our team places the microwave in the 3D design layout along with the other appliances, so you can check reach and door swing before ordering. To start a conversation about your kitchen, visit our Vancouver kitchen remodeling page.

Common questions

Can I put a regular countertop microwave inside a cabinet?

Only if the manufacturer says the model may be enclosed, which usually means using its trim kit. Countertop microwaves vent from the sides, back or top and can overheat in a closed box. An open shelf with the clearances in the manual, or a model with an approved built-in kit, avoids the problem.

Is a microwave drawer hard to clean or use?

It opens like a drawer, either by a pull or a button, and you lower dishes in from above, which makes lifting hot liquids safer than reaching up. Cleaning is from above too. Most drawer models have no turntable, and the interior is lower than a typical countertop unit, so check that your tall mugs and containers fit.

Can a microwave go in the island?

Yes, and it is a popular place for a drawer model, usually on the side facing the refrigerator and away from the main cooking zone. The island then needs power for it, which is planned with the island's other electrical requirements during rough-in.

Do I need a microwave at all if I have a speed oven or steam oven?

A speed oven includes a microwave function, so it can replace one. A steam oven reheats food very well without drying it but is slower than a microwave and will not make popcorn. Households that mostly reheat leftovers and soften butter are usually happiest keeping some form of microwave.

Sources

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