Cabinet Wood Species Compared: Maple, Oak, Cherry, Walnut, Alder and Hickory
By the JDI Construction teamReviewed by Arthur Kulchitskiy, CEOUpdated October 20266 min read
Maple is smooth and takes paint well, red and white oak have strong open grain that suits stain, cherry and walnut are chosen for natural color, alder is soft and stains easily, and hickory is the hardest with the boldest color variation. In the USDA Wood Handbook, side hardness runs from 590 pounds-force for red alder to 1,880 for shagbark hickory.
If your cabinets will be stained or clear-finished, the species is the look: the grain, the color and the way both change over the years. If they will be painted, the species matters for a different reason, which is how smooth the surface stays under the paint. This page compares the six woods most often offered for kitchen cabinets and explains what the hardness numbers do and do not tell you.
The six species side by side
Hardness figures are side hardness at 12 percent moisture content from the USDA Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (2021 edition, Table 5-3b). The handbook describes the test as a modified Janka test: the load needed to embed a 0.444-inch steel ball to half its diameter. A higher number means the wood resists denting better.
| Species | Side hardness (pounds-force) | Grain | Color and how it ages | Stain or paint | Relative cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Red alder | 590 | Fine and even, quiet; also sold in a knotty grade | Almost white to pale pinkish brown; warms slightly | Takes stain readily and is often stained to resemble cherry; too soft to be a first choice for paint | Lower to mid |
| Black cherry | 950 | Fine, uniform, with a natural luster | Light to dark reddish brown; darkens noticeably with light exposure | Clear or light stain; can blotch under dark stain | Higher |
| Black walnut | 1,010 | Usually straight, sometimes figured | Light to dark brown heartwood with nearly white sapwood; tends to lighten and mellow over time | Clear finish; rarely stained and never painted | Highest |
| Northern red oak | 1,290 | Open and coarse, with strong arched grain when plain-sawn | Brown with a tinge of red; ambers under oil-based finishes | Takes stain evenly; grain shows through paint | Lower |
| White oak | 1,360 | Open, with long rays that show as flecks when quarter-sawn | Grayish brown; less red than red oak | Takes stain and pale or natural finishes well | Higher, highest in rift or quarter-sawn cuts |
| Hard (sugar) maple | 1,450 | Fine and uniform, generally straight | Creamy white sapwood; yellows gradually under a clear finish | A preferred paint-grade wood; light stains only, dark stains blotch | Mid |
| Hickory (shagbark) | 1,880 | Coarse and bold | White sapwood and reddish heartwood in the same board, so strong contrast | Clear or light stain; the contrast shows through | Mid |
The cost column is the usual order within one cabinet line, and it shifts with the lumber market and with the grade and cut you choose. The Wood Handbook lists several hickories; shagbark is shown here, and pecan hickory, often sold with it, is listed at 1,820.
What hardness does and does not tell you
On this scale hickory resists a dent about three times as well as alder. That is a real difference on the lower drawer fronts of a busy kitchen, where a dropped pan or a toy truck leaves a mark in alder that it would not leave in maple or hickory.
It tells you nothing about scratches in the finish, water damage, or how the cabinet is put together. A cabinet door is protected by its coating, and the coating is what wears first. The differences between coatings are covered in cabinet finishes explained. Hardness matters far more underfoot, which is why the same table is used in hardwood floors in the kitchen.
The numbers are averages. The handbook's values come from tests on clear, straight-grained samples, and individual boards vary.
Grain: open, closed and how the log is cut
Oak and hickory are open-grained: the pores are large enough to see and feel, and they take up stain strongly, which gives the pronounced pattern people either like or want to avoid. Maple, cherry and alder are close-grained and read as smooth. Walnut sits between.
The way the log is sawn changes the pattern as much as the species does, especially in oak:
- Plain-sawn boards show the arched "cathedral" grain associated with older oak kitchens.
- Quarter-sawn boards are cut so the growth rings meet the face at a steep angle. The grain is straight, and in oak the rays appear as ribbon-like flecks. The Wood Handbook notes that quarter-sawn oak is distinguished by its broad and conspicuous rays.
- Rift-sawn boards are cut to give straight, tight lines with little or no fleck. Rift white oak is the straight-grained look common in current modern and Scandinavian kitchens.
Rift and quarter-sawn cuts produce less usable lumber from each log, which is why they cost more. They also move less across their width with changes in humidity than plain-sawn boards do. The Wood Handbook treats quarter-sawn width shrinkage using radial values, which are lower than the tangential values used for plain-sawn stock.
Color change is part of the choice
All wood changes color with light and time, and a clear finish slows it without stopping it. Cherry is the dramatic case. A new cherry kitchen is a light pinkish tan and deepens to a rich reddish brown, fastest when the wood is new and in the sunniest part of the room. An object left in one spot on a cherry shelf will leave a pale shadow for a while. Walnut goes the other way and lightens. Maple and pale finishes on any wood yellow gradually, more under oil-based coatings than waterborne ones.
Two practical points follow. Judge a species from an aged sample if the showroom has one. And if you plan to add cabinets later, expect new doors not to match until they catch up.
Which woods suit paint and which suit stain
- Painted finish: hard maple, soft maple, birch and yellow-poplar are the usual paint-grade woods because their grain does not telegraph through. Oak can be painted, but the open pores show as texture unless they are filled, which some people choose on purpose.
- Stained, where you want pronounced grain: red oak, white oak and hickory.
- Stained or clear, where you want quiet grain and warm color: cherry, alder and walnut.
- Clear and pale: maple and white oak, with a waterborne finish if you want to limit yellowing.
The wider comparison of the two approaches is in painted vs. stained kitchen cabinets.
What to check before you choose
- Look at a full sample door in your species and finish, in your own kitchen's light, at different times of day.
- Ask what grade of lumber the line uses and how much color variation, mineral streaking and sapwood it allows. In hickory, walnut and cherry this changes the look more than anything else.
- Ask which parts are solid wood and which are veneer, and whether the veneer is the same species and cut.
- For oak, ask for the cut by name: plain-sawn, rift or quarter-sawn.
- Ask how end panels, fillers and crown are matched, since they come from different stock than the doors.
- If you are painting, ask about the frame species and the center panel material.
Who should choose which
- A painted kitchen: maple or another paint-grade wood. Paying for cherry or walnut under paint is wasted money.
- A warm traditional kitchen at a moderate cost: alder or cherry, accepting that alder dents more easily.
- A modern wood kitchen: rift white oak or walnut, usually as veneer on slab doors. See cabinet door styles.
- A hard-wearing family kitchen with visible grain: oak or hickory, in a mid-tone stain that hides wear.
- A rustic or cabin look: hickory or knotty alder.
How wood cabinets sit with floors and other materials is covered in wood kitchens and in mixing wood tones.
Where to go next
Species is chosen alongside door style, construction and finish; the overview of kitchen cabinets shows how the decisions connect. If you would like to compare sample doors with someone who installs them, JDI Construction offers a free in-home consultation. Start on our Vancouver kitchen remodeling page.
Common questions
Does a harder wood make a longer-lasting cabinet?
Only a little. Hardness measures resistance to denting, and cabinet doors take far fewer blows than a floor does. How a cabinet holds up depends more on the finish, the box construction and the hardware. Hardness matters most on lower doors and drawer fronts in a household with children, pets or a lot of traffic.
What wood is under a painted cabinet door?
Usually a smooth, close-grained hardwood for the frame, such as hard or soft maple, birch or yellow-poplar, often with an MDF center panel. Manufacturers choose paint-grade wood for a surface that does not show grain through the paint, so color and figure do not matter. Ask which species and panel material your painted door uses.
Why does maple look blotchy when it is stained dark?
Maple is dense and its pores are small, so stain soaks in unevenly and collects where the grain changes direction. Cherry and alder can do the same. Factories reduce it with conditioners, dyes and toners sprayed in the finish. If you want a dark stained kitchen, look at a full sample door in that species, not a color chip.
Are solid wood cabinets all solid wood?
Rarely. In most cabinets sold as solid wood, the door frames, drawer fronts and face frames are solid, while center panels, cabinet sides and slab doors are veneer over plywood or another engineered core. That is normal practice and often the better build, because wide veneered panels stay flat.
Can I match new cabinets to my existing oak trim or floor?
Matching the species is easy; matching the color is not, because the old wood has changed with years of light and finish. It is usually better to choose a cabinet wood that clearly differs from the floor or relates to it by undertone than to attempt a near match that just misses.
- USDA Forest Products Laboratory, Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-282), Chapter 5: Mechanical properties of wood, Table 5-3b (side hardness)
- USDA Forest Products Laboratory, Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-282), Chapter 2: Characteristics and availability of commercially important woods
- USDA Forest Products Laboratory, Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-282), Chapter 4: Moisture relations and physical properties of wood
Checked October 2026. Rules, fees and programs change; confirm the current requirement with the agency before you rely on it.
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